First and foremost, we spend months working on selecting our ingredients (see article) followed by months of laboratory formulation.
Once we have a satisfactory formula, the serious work begins!
Challenge 1: Stability and compatibility tests.
First, every skincare product must have good stability over time.
From factory production to your bathroom.
We must ensure the perfect quality of our products.
Therefore, in our lab, we "torture" our formulas:
The products are heated to 45, 55 degrees, frozen to -10 degrees for 6 months.
Every week, we check the pH, fragrance, and many other physicochemical parameters of our formulas.
After 6 months, if all is well, and all products are stable: we continue with the compatibility tests.
If an anomaly is detected: darn it, Dr. Tao will have to go back to the lab and rework it.
We also test the compatibility of our formulas with our bottles. We want to ensure that the packaging is suitable and that no molecules from the bottle migrate into our formula.
And this phase also takes 3 months.
Trial 2: Preservation tests.
First, it's extremely important to measure the shelf life of products containing water.
As you know, water is life; all living things love water, so do germs.
If a formula is contaminated by germs during its distribution, it can be very dangerous for children and could have very serious consequences. (They have a less effective immune system than adults).
'The Challenge Test'
This test lasts for 28 days; approved independent laboratories voluntarily add many germs to our formulas to see how they react.
There are 2 categories:
Category A: Products perform very well against germs: the formula is suitable for the eye contour and for use on babies.
Then category B: The formula passes the tests, but its use requires caution.
And of course, all our products are in category A. Otherwise, our Dr. Tao goes back to work!
Trial 3: Ocular tolerance tests
If a product is intended to be applied to the eye contour or if its intended use implies possible contact with the eye area (facial cleanser, shampoo...).
We must prove the absence of risks for consumers' eyes.
How is it done?
Tests are performed on corneal cells cultured in a Petri dish (no, there are no little bunny eyes in the lab; these are barely visible cells).
If the cells live well in contact with our products, the product poses no risk to the eyes.
Obviously, none of our products pose any risk to the eyes (no irritation).
Trial 4: Ex vivo cutaneous tolerance tests
All our products have been tested on children's skin cells kept alive in a Petri dish (the cells, not the children: said like that, it sounds like a horror movie).
In reality, these skin cells form an opaque film in the dishes in the laboratory.
Independent laboratories place these famous children's skins with our products to see how they react after 48 hours of incubation.
And once again, the only result that satisfies us is zero irritation for our products.
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Trial 5: Clinical cutaneous tolerance tests
Phase I
After ensuring that the products are not irritating to cells in the laboratory, we conduct Phase I clinical tests.
These tests are performed under dermatological control.
Products are applied to the backs of 20 volunteers with sensitive and atopic-prone skin.
The test is applied for 24 to 48 hours, and skin reactions are measured.
The formula will only be validated if there are no apparent reactions.
Phase II
Once Phase I is satisfactory, we move on to Phase II!
This time, products are tested on a larger number of volunteers: 100 subjects.
To determine if our product is hypoallergenic. 1 to 5% of this population is allergic to cosmetic products.
If no volunteer reacts: it's validated!
Phase III
After all this, we test our products in real conditions: 20 volunteers use our products for 28 days.
For these tests, dermatological control is carried out morning and evening to ensure optimal safety.
And now you're thinking, "That's it, they've finished their tests!" But no, we move on to...
Trial 6: Efficacy Tests
To summarize, our products are 100% natural, ultra-gentle, with no allergic or irritating reactions, but are they effective?
In terms of hydration and the elimination of pollution particles and dirt?
Hydration Test
Devices measure the water content of the skin.
First, our products are applied to the forearms of volunteers.
Then, approved independent laboratories measure the water content before and after 8 hours of use.
If there is more water in the tested area than in other skin areas, it means the products are hydrating.
Cleaning Efficacy Test
First, pollution particles are sprayed onto the skin, and it is cleaned. Then, the skin's cleanliness is measured before and after cleaning.
We validate if the formula manages to eliminate more than 99.9% of pollution particles and dirt.
Trial 7: The Product Information File (PIF)
The last trial for our little formula is the review by an independent toxicologist. He will meticulously examine all results, analyze, calculate, and provide a complete report (nearly 1000 pages!!) called the PIF (Product Information File).
This file is a legal document, an identity card for our formula that has become a product, and will finally allow us to obtain the stamp guaranteeing the quality and safety of our product!
Once we receive the toxicologist's report, and since we have organic products, we also need Ecocert to validate the composition and label.
After all this paperwork, FINALLY, we register our products on the CPNP notification (Cosmetic Products Notification Portal) and then that's it...
Ultimately, another chapter begins, that of production…
We hope you enjoyed this transparency, and that you now better understand the commitment and work behind each bottle of LiLiKiWi product!
If you have any questions, please feel free to send us an email at coucou@lilikiwi.fr