What is hair?
Hair is made of dead cells consisting mainly of a very resistant protein called Keratin.
Our hair doesn't just have an aesthetic function; it plays an essential role in protecting our brain (the most important, but also the most fragile organ in the human body).
To function properly, the brain needs a stable temperature, and our hair is a perfect isothermal material.
To learn more: our article.
What to look out for when choosing a children's shampoo?
Here are the commandments for choosing children's shampoo:
Thou shalt respect the pH
First of all, hair cells are dead, but the scalp, where the hair root is located, is very much alive.
Therefore, it is responsible for the health and thus the appearance of our hair.
Our scalp has an acidic pH between 5.4 - 5.9. This acidity is very important for maintaining the scalp and its microbiota (the friendly microbes). Article
As is often the case, our great-grandparents understood everything: back then, they rinsed their hair with vinegar (acidic pH): an excellent solution to compensate for the alkaline pH of the soaps of the time (they had far fewer choices than we do).
Nowadays, shampoo ranges are much more developed (so much so that we get lost) and apart from some solid ones, the pH of shampoos is adjusted and does not require a vinegar rinse.
Moreover, hair naturally has a negative electrical charge; we all know the joys of static electricity in hair when it's cold and dry.
The alkalinity of products can give hair even more static charge; we risk all ending up like this:
In short, rule number 1: choose a shampoo with a slightly acidic pH, or one claiming a "neutral pH."
Thou shalt avoid overly harsh cleansing agents
Since our earliest childhood, the goal of shampoo has been to create lots of foam for funny hairstyles, let's be honest.
But in reality, there's no link between foaming power and detergent power (cleansing: the actual purpose of shampoo, after all).
Ultimately, when a shampoo foams a lot, it means the head is already clean; the bubbles come from the surfactants (if they are free to foam, it means they didn't have much to work on). Article
Big brands' marketing teams have understood this very well: the sensation of rich lather is what matters most to consumers.
That's why many formulas, even organic and natural shampoos, use very harsh surfactants for their super-foaming effect.
But you must:
1. Avoid sulfates.
We know, we're repeating ourselves, but truly, when you see the word sulfate in any product, organic or not, we advise against applying it to a child's small body.
2. Prefer certain families of surfactants:
You can trust cleansing agents from the family with names ending in amino acids and glucosides (article); these are gentle cleansing agents.
Thou shalt protect little eyes.
We all know the struggle of washing our little rascals' hair, and if we also use a product that stings their eyes, imagine the disaster!
For a shampoo not to sting the eyes:
1. Avoid sulfates (them again!).
2. Avoid an alkaline or very acidic pH.
Ideally, product pH should be around 5.5 - 7.
3. Also avoid potentially irritating compounds for the eyes: for example, BENZYL ALCOHOL, DEHYDROACETIC ACID, which make up the famous COSGARD widely used in organic and natural shampoos.
We have noticed that quite a few "natural" shampoos use this preservative.
However, at an effective dose, this combination of preservatives does sting the eyes.
Thou shalt avoid allergens and sensitizing products.
Given the presence of many blood vessels (to nourish all those small hairs), the scalp is very sensitive.
Consequently, it can have more significant allergic reactions, so it is essential to be careful to avoid:
- Synthetic fragrances, behind the word 'FRAGRANCE' can hide many things... Endocrine disruptors (Phthalates, BHT for example), CMR ingredients (carcinogenic, mutagenic and reprotoxic) like toluene, etc.
It is better to be wary of a very fragrant product not certified by labels.
- Avoid the 26 known cosmetic allergens (the list)
- Avoid sensitizing and allergenic products such as the betaine family: coco/lauryl/cocamidopropyl betaine.
Thou shalt banish silicones and quats (quaternary ammonium).
Beware of the false impression of beautiful, shiny, and soft hair they give (like in the commercial, you know the one where the lady runs through fields smiling blandly)!
Because in reality, silicones and quats have an occlusive effect: they suffocate the hair and are harmful to hair health in the long term.
Moreover, they are absolutely not biodegradable and are a real disaster for the environment (and in the end, the silly smile).
Fortunately, silicones are not allowed in organic products.
However, some quats are... We haven't understood the logic; the one most often found in organic cosmetics is:
GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE
Probably because it is synthesized from guar gum and thus gives the illusion of being natural...
Thou shalt be wary of "eco-responsible" shampoos.
As our environment becomes increasingly fragile, choosing an organic, biodegradable shampoo with 100% natural ingredients is an essential step.
Like all products we use for our hygiene, shampoo ends up in the water, and its environmental impact extends beyond the packaging.
For example, ethoxylation products: Sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI), PEGs, and sodium laureth sulfates. These are prohibited in organic products but are unfortunately still too present in other "eco-responsible" cosmetics.
Solid shampoo or liquid shampoo?
With the arrival of the "Zero Waste" trend, which doesn't truly exist (pure marketing talk, as all manufacturing, processing, and logistics procedures generate waste. A product is not zero waste just because it has no plastic packaging, sometimes it's even worse). Article
Also beware of greenwashing solid products containing SCI and soap that makes hair greasy.
Prioritize pre-shampoo rather than conditioner
We understand you, simply shampooing without tears, without crying, and maintaining Olympic calm is already a true feat, so applying a rinse-off conditioner, we tend to throw in the towel!
In reality, conditioners do not "nourish" the hair, contrary to what big brands' marketing wants you to believe.
As we said, hair is made of dead cells, rich in keratin (a bit like fish scales).
If the scales are well closed and smooth, it gives this illusion of shine and softness.
In reality, all conditioners and masks act as "cement." They glue the hair scales together well and give an impression of shine.
This is the dark side of the cosmetic industry: you start with a shampoo containing sulfate, which will damage the hair well, then a conditioner that will effectively glue the hair scales together to give the impression that the hair is "healthy."
But wouldn't it be simpler to wash your hair with healthy cleansing agents?
Oh right, but then you can't sell serums, masks, conditioners... anymore?
Therefore, we offer another way to treat our little rascals' manes:
For long, curly, or frizzy hair, applying coconut or flaxseed oil before shampooing is an excellent choice for hair care.
Plus, you only rinse the head once after shampooing, hurray!
In any case: avoid 2-in-1 products
Because it's not always easy to wash children, many brands offer 2-in-1 products, especially for children's hair care.
However, this is an impossible balance to strike.
Indeed, to wash hair thoroughly, a larger dose of cleansing agent would be needed; even with the gentlest surfactants in the world, a significant dose is always required for hair to be properly cleaned.
However, for skin and eyes, such a quantity of cleansing agent is aggressive for children's delicate skin.
It is possible, for holidays for example, to use these practical products occasionally and temporarily. But be careful not to use them for your child's intimate areas or face: their skin there is extremely sensitive.
Are active ingredients really necessary for a child's shampoo?
The active ingredients that make us dream may indeed not be necessary for a child's shampoo...
A shampoo is a cleansing product, and we have seen that many shampoos claim natural active ingredients, such as hemp extract, Aloe Vera, and Arnica.
But are they truly useful and necessary?
First of all, shampoos contain surfactants; all active ingredients dissolve in water, so Aloe Vera and hydroglycol extracts of Arnica will actually end up down the drain.
Then, for the products that remain, to "nourish" and "repair" hair, be aware that hair cuticles are very difficult to penetrate...
For example, take a good look at the many components that need to be added to permanent hair dyes.
Ultimately, all these active ingredients are mostly marketing active ingredients.
Organic and natural anti-lice shampoo?
Ideally, physical methods are the most effective and least risky.
Indeed, a shampoo containing essential oil carries numerous risks: for example, eucalyptus essential oil is very effective against lice.
But due to its dangerousness and its benefit/risk ratio, it has been prohibited in cosmetics in Canada since this year.
Scientifically, silicones are a very effective treatment. From a more eco-responsible point of view, coconut oil also yields good results (but it is slower and less effective than silicones).
There are also "anti-lice institute" shops, which we had the opportunity to test on our own children (yes, no one is safe from these little critters); the results are quite good.
There are many methods and products; did you know that anti-lice products are not considered cosmetics, but rather biocides or medical devices?
There would be much to say about anti-lice methods. If the topic interests you, feel free to ask us questions, and we can write to you!
To sum up, the parental crusade for healthy, planet-friendly, yet effective products for your children is not over!
Or maybe it is? Could a shampoo combining all these criteria exist? We invite you to take a look here (your solution? )
If you have any questions, comments, hesitations, or want to write to us: coucou@lilikiwi.fr or via DM on our social networks!